A days sport climbing in Red Rocks

It was the multipitch routes which drove me to Red Rocks, however I also really enjoyed the sports climbing. Although I had left notes on message boards, I found the best way to meet people was to turn up at the popular crags and start chatting with people. In the morning I went to the Gallery area of the Calico Hills and met Johnathon and Phil. I climbed with them in the morning and then in the afternoon with a guy named Joe, with whom I also hatched plans for some multi-pitch later in the week. I'd hoped that the day wouldn't be too strenuous but in the end I climbed 9 routes, 8 of which were on lead, and 7 of which were tens. I climbed 10c on-sight clean and very nearly 10d (one small fall due to poor reading of the route). All of the routes were overhanging and crimpy. I like crimps but as soon as the terrain gets steep I find the climbing really challenging. That being said I loved the sport at Red Rocks, and now can really imagine myself going on a Sports climbing holiday and getting really into it. Actually, my parents live close to Portland so if anyone is interested in some English Limestone let me know.

Johnathon climbing the insanely overhanging "Fear and Loathing" 5.12. I always enjoy watching good climbers in action, his footwark was really precise and he had a technique where he twisted his foot into the holds and edged with the outside. I often read Neil Gresham's Masterclass column which gives tips for high preformance climbing; Johnathon probably hadn't read Neil Gresham but if he did he'd paid great attention as he climbed exactly the way Neil describes. I'd like to climb like this, but balance and careful footwork aren't easy things to learn.

Phil top-roping a 5.10c. The consistently slightly overhanging angle was typical of the day. I actually on-sighted this route and felt pretty pleased with myself as it felt very touch and go with perhaps more touch than go. As I said previously, crimps and overhangs aren't a good combination for me. However, the whole exprerience has whetted my appetite for overhangs and I can see myself training this aspect of my climbing this winter. More importantly, I am proving to myself that the tendons in my elbows are stronger and can cope with more rigourous climbing.

Joe checking out the guidebook under a 5.10d route. It wasn't any steeper than the others but the holds seemed smaller and further in between.